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Bolo de rolo (Pernambuco roll cake)

Pernambuco roll cake (bolo de rolo)

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Bolo de rolo is a Pernambuco cake: many paper-thin layers of sponge rolled around melted guava paste (goiabada). Guava paste is a dense fruit block from a Mexican or Brazilian market; it is not grape jelly. It is state heritage food. It belongs after lunch with a small cup of Brazilian coffee (cafezinho) — supermarket Brazilian coffee sold in the US (Pilão, 3 Corações) — or in the afternoon.

Ingredients — batter (250 g each)

  • 250 g (8.8 oz/ 1 cup + 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 250 g (8.8 oz/ 1 1/4 cups) sugar
  • 6 large eggs, room temperature
  • 250 g (8.8 oz/ 2 cups) all-purpose flour, sifted
  • A pinch of salt

This is the even-weight Pernambuco batter. Some home recipes add baking powder and milk. The tighter version does not. Stay with butter, sugar, eggs, and flour.

Filling

  • 400 to 500 g (14 to 18 oz) creamy guava paste (goiabada), the soft block, not a hard bar
  • 2 tablespoons (30 ml) hot water

Melt the goiabada with the water over low heat or a water bath until it is a spreadable paste. Cool to warm. Hot goiabada tears the cake.

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F/ 220°C.
  2. Beat butter and sugar until pale. Add the eggs one at a time. Fold in the flour and salt. Stop mixing once the flour just disappears, so the batter stays tender.
  3. Line a shallow rectangular pan with parchment. Spread a very thin layer of batter, almost see-through.
  4. Bake 4 to 6 minutes, until the shine is gone and the cake is just set. Turn it out.
  5. Spread a thin film of goiabada. Roll it while it is still warm.
  6. Bake the next thin sheet, spread, and roll it around the first roll. Repeat until the batter is gone.
  7. Cool completely. Slice thin so you see the spiral.

The work is the thin sheets. A thick layer is a jelly roll, not bolo de rolo.

How you know it’s done

Bake 4 to 6 minutes, until the shine is gone and the cake is just set. Cool completely.

After a churrasco

Serve small slices with cafezinho, not with ice cream unless you say you are departing.

What to buy

Creamy goiabada is at a Mexican or Brazilian market. Goya is the Mexican-aisle bar. Predilecta is the usual mid Brazilian bar.

  • Low: Goya Guava Paste at a Mexican or Latin market — a named block that rolls if that is what the store has.
  • Usual mid: Predilecta goiabada at a Brazilian market — the usual mid Brazilian brand for bolo de rolo.
  • High: Predilecta goiabada cremosa — the creamy tin; it spreads thin without tearing the sheet.

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