Brasa Brazil

Beijinho is the coconut sister of brigadeiros. Same condensed-milk pot, no cocoa. You roll the balls in shredded coconut or sugar and often pin a whole clove on top. After a backyard churrasco they come out on the festa tray with the chocolate ones. You make them hours ahead. They sit at room temperature while the fire runs.

Ingredients (about 20 balls)

• 1 can (14 oz/ 395 g) sweetened condensed milk (leite condensado)
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter (manteiga), plus more for the plate and your hands
• 1 cup (80 g) unsweetened shredded coconut (coco ralado), plus about 3/4 cup (60 g) more for rolling
• About 20 whole cloves (cravo-da-índia), optional

Coco ralado is dry shredded coconut from the baking aisle or a Latin market — not coconut milk. Unsweetened coconut is better; the pot is already sweet. Granulated sugar is the other roll if you are out of coconut. The clove is decoration and a little perfume. People take it out before they eat.

Method

1. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the condensed milk and the cup of coconut.
2. Keep stirring. The mix will bubble slowly and thicken. When you can drag the spoon across the bottom and see the pan for a second before the fudge closes, it is ready. That is usually 8 to 12 minutes. Stay with the pot. It scorches.
3. Scrape it onto a buttered plate. Let it cool until you can touch it, about 30 to 40 minutes. The fridge speeds this up if the kitchen is hot.
4. Butter your hands. Roll balls about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. Roll each one in the extra coconut. Set it in a small paper cup if you have them. A plain plate is fine. Pin one clove in the top of each ball if you want the classic look.

How you know it is done

The mixture holds a clean line on the bottom of the pan for a second, and a spoonful mounds instead of running. Underdone beijinho will not roll.

After a churrasco

Make the tray in the morning, or the day before. They keep covered at room temperature for a day, or two days in the fridge. Bring them out after the meat, next to the brigadeiros. Cafezinho is the usual cup with them. Guaraná or juice if people want something cold.

Next cooks

The chocolate ones: Brazilian chocolate fudge balls (brigadeiros). The short list of sweets after a fire: desserts after a Brazilian churrasco.

The cup with them: Brazilian coffee after barbecue (cafezinho).

Region: Across Brazil.