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Fried or steamed plantain (banana-da-terra)

Fried plantains (banana-da-terra)

Plantain (banana-da-terra) is the Brazilian cooking banana. It is starchy, cooked, and served as a side with grilled meat, especially in the North and Northeast. Buy yellow or black-ripe plantains at any supermarket. It shows up at some churrascos the way cassava (macaxeira) does: a hot starch next to salt and char. It is not a Cavendish dessert banana.

What to buy

In a US store the label is plantain, usually sold green or turning yellow. For a churrasco side buy them yellow with some black spots, still firm. Green plantains fry like a chip and taste dry. Soft black ones collapse. Four large plantains serve about six as a side.

Regular bananas (nanica or prata) belong in cartola, the Pernambuco dessert. This pan is for plantain (banana-da-terra).

Banana-da-terra frita (fried)

  • 4 firm-ripe plantains
  • 1/2 cup (120 ml) neutral oil, or 3 tablespoons bottled Brazilian butter (manteiga de garrafa) or melted salted butter
  • 1/2 teaspoon (1/2 colher de chá) fine salt, tossed on while hot
  1. Peel. Cut each plantain in half lengthwise, then into 3 medium slices, or into 1/2-inch rounds.
  2. Heat the oil or butter in a wide skillet over medium heat until it shimmers.
  3. Fry in one layer until both sides are deep gold, 3 to 5 minutes per side.
  4. Drain on a rack or paper. Salt immediately.

Bottled Brazilian butter (manteiga de garrafa) is the better flavor if you have it. Melted salted butter works if the bottle is gone. A little salt is enough.

Banana-da-terra cozida or steamed

  • 4 plantains, ends trimmed, peel left on
  • 1 liter (4 cups) water for boiling
  1. Cover with the water.
  2. Simmer about 10 minutes, until the peels split.
  3. Cool enough to handle, peel, and cut into chunks.
  4. Serve hot, with a pinch of coarse salt or a little butter.

For a firmer piece, steam the same unpeeled plantains 12 to 15 minutes instead of boiling. The flesh should give to a knife and stay in one piece, like boiled macaxeira.

On the fire

  1. Grill peeled halves, cut side down, over the cool side of the fire with a film of oil, about 25–35 cm (10–14 in) from the embers, about 3 minutes per side, until soft and marked.

That is banana-da-terra grelhada, not the fried side and not grilled pineapple (abacaxi com canela).

At a churrasco

Fry or boil while the meat rests. Serve next to fresh garlic pork sausage (linguiça toscana), sun-dried salted beef (carne de sol), or picanha, with toasted cassava flour (farofa) and Brazilian tomato-onion sauce (vinagrete). This is a Nordeste plate.

If you fry them, then add grilling cheese (queijo coalho; halloumi is the US stand-in), sugar, and cinnamon, you have left this post and made cartola, which is a Pernambuco dessert.

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